Hardtail Sportster Build
Article by Mark Trotta
Whether you ride an Evo or an Ironhead, a hardtail frame will elevate your Sporty into the wide world of customs!
Partial vs Complete Frame
Hardtail kits contain just the rear half of the frame, and are offered as either bolt-on or weld-on to the main frame section.
The biggest advantage of a bolt-on/weld-on is that it allows you to keep the factory VIN number, so no custom title is necessary. This can be a huge deal in some states and provinces.
Bolt-on hardtail kits are fairly easy to install, and they're not permanent. This means the bike can be returned back to stock if desired.
On the bike pictured above, the builder installed a bolt-on kit, then added a few tack-welds to the nuts and bolt heads, so they couldn't vibrate loose.
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Hardtail Kit
This hardtail rear section from TC Bros fits 1982 through 2003 Sportsters (requires welding).
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Hardtail Frame
When you buy a complete hardtail frame, most brackets that you need are already welded on.
The V-Twin XL200 frame accepts 1986-2003 Evolution Sportster rigid mount engine and has 1" neck cups. Includes kick stand tabs, sissy bar tabs and battery box mounts.
Custom brackets can also be fabricated.
On Ironhead models with a rear drum brake, you'll need a rear brake stay tab for the brake cable.
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Rear Chain
A stock Sportster chain will have about a 106-110 links.
A hardtail makes the bike longer, so you'll need a 120 link chain and cut out any links that you don't need.
Offset Transmission Sprocket
Thinking of converting your Evo from belt to chain?
Want to run a wider back tire?
Drag Specialties offers a .200" Offset Transmission Sprocket Kit For 1984-1990 Harley Sportster, allowing installation of 180/200mm tire, or converting from belt to 530 chain drive.
Kit includes offset sprocket and machined spacer. Available with 21T or 22T.
Building a hardtail Sportster is simpler than building a hardtail Big-Twin Harley, because there is no separate transmission that needs to be aligned. However, the rear-wheel chain sprocket needs to be lined up with the engine sprocket.
The only way to ensure that the two sprockets line up is trial and error. It's a time-consuming process of adding/removing axle spacers on either side of the rear wheel until the chain and sprockets line up.
Motion Pro Wheel Alignment Tool takes the guess work out of aligning the rear axle.
Rear Fender
An old school favorite is a flat steel fender. They're cheap, easy to fit, and gives you that nostalgic chopper look.
Rear Fender Mounting
A sissy bar adds a little bit of style, plus it gives you a mounting place for the rear fender.
Overall Stance
One of the hardest and most overlooked parts of a any custom build is how the bike will sit when done.
The way to check overall stance is to trial-fit everything, including the motor. The motor needs to be put on the frame to put weight on the front end, so you can get an accurate view of how the bike will sit. And don't forget the weight of the rider will bring it down some as well.
Before final painting, make sure everything fits. This is done by assembling and disassembling.
The frame can be painted an offset color from the gas tank and fenders, but that's entirely up to you.
On this bike, the gas tank was left unpainted.
High Mount Gas Tank
As an alternative to welding mounting tabs onto the frame, you can buy a gas tank that already has them. The low tunnel, high mount tank retains the classic Sportster look, but the original-style mounts were replaced with tabs front and rear.
Read: Install Gas Tank on Hardtail Frame
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Best Front End For Hardtail Frame
Lots of choices here. You can re-use the existing front forks, or swap the whole front end to something with more visual appeal. Two common choices are a springer (chrome, brass, or black) or girder front end.
Girder vs Springer
Girder front forks were fitted to motorcycles for many years before hydraulic forks came about. Pound for pound, they will deflect less than other types of front suspensions.
On my old '72 Sportster Hardtail, my first choice was a springer, but then decided on a 4" over P&P girder front end with a single shock. I rode with that front end for seven seasons.
And there's plenty of handlebar choices!
Shop: TC Bros Handlebars
Brake Light Switch
On this '81 Ironhead, the factory brake light switch was retained, but relocated underneath the frame behind the motor.
When you're custom wiring a complete motorcycle, you can start anywhere you like; headlight, taillight, or anywhere in between. But you should start with a plan.
Read: Custom-Wiring A Motorcycle
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