BMW R1100R Ignition Switch Replacement
Article by Mark Trotta
Occasionally I'll take in side work, and when I do, it's likely to be something time consuming, like an engine build or complete rewiring job. To make room in the garage, one of the motorcycles may have to stay outside for a while. And since the R1100R is my least vintage bike, it's the one that stays outside.
After rolling the bike out onto the driveway and pulling it up on the center stand, I turn the bars to the right, turn the key to the right, and engage the fork lock. I give the handlebars a slight tug to verify the lock is secure, then cover the bike with an outdoor motorcycle cover.
When the weekend arrives, I like to take the Beemer out for a long Sunday morning ride. Pull on my boots, slip on my jacket, and grab my helmet. Put the key in the ignition switch, but it won't turn! The key tumbler is stuck in the "lock" position.
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Three things I tried...
Squirting 3-in-1 oil into the key slot.
Wiggling the forks back and forth while twisting the key.
Tapping lightly with a hammer and piece of wood to "shock" and release.
None of these methods worked. No ride today.
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Several weeks later, after the side work is done and the garage is clear, I'm ready to tackle the stuck lock. But first I have to move a motorcycle with stuck front forks 20 feet into the garage.
I summon two helpers and have them stand on either side of the bike, while I lift it from underneath with a floor jack. Then, with the front wheel off the ground, we slowly pull the bike and floor jack into the garage!
Ignition Lock Removal
Many BMW motorcycles left the factory with two security bolts holding the ignition switch to the top clamp. Unless the ignition switch has been replaced before, the top fork clamp (triple tree) needs to be removed in order to remove these security bolts.
Handlebars and Instrument Cluster Removal
Handlebar removal is straightforward; Allen bolts and a couple of threaded studs. The left and right bars were wire-tied out of the way so they did not hang by the wires. Once the handlebars are removed, the one-piece instrument cluster and headlamp bucket can be moved out of the way.
Remove Ignition Switch From Top Fork Clamp
I thought I would have to remove the top clamp, but in my case it wasn't necessary.
Seems that this switch was replaced before (?) as the factory security bolts had been replaced with Allen bolts.
I was able to unbolt the switch, then pull it down and out of the clamp.
Remove Wire Harness From Switch
On the right-hand side of the key barrel, there is a tiny set-screw.
Remove the screw and the wire harness and switch separate.
This required using a smallest jewelry-sized screwdriver I owned.
Lock Barrel Removal
The lock barrel can only be removed with the key in the "on" position. Trouble was, mine was frozen stuck in the lock position.
I had three options:
Option 1) - Soak the ignition switch and tumbler in carburetor parts cleaner, and hope that it works free. I did this for two days. It didn't cost me anything, but it also didn't do anything.
Option 2) - Drill out the key tumbler, taking care not to do any more damage in the process. This would involve time and labor and risk, and I'd still have to buy a replacement key tumbler.
Option 3) - Find a good used ignition switch.
After doing a little homework, I found that the top clamp, ignition switch and key tumbler are the same for several BMW models, including 850's and 1100's. Looking through ebay, there were a handful of sellers offering the key lock with various other parts. I chose a reliable (high-rated) seller with reasonable shipping.
Included with the ignition switch was an accompanying seat lock, helmet lock, and gas cap door.
The replacement switch still had the factory security bolts holding it to the clamp.
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Remove Security Bolts Without The Tool
Although there are specialty tools to remove the security bolts, they can also be drilled out and replaced with Allen bolts.
To start, the center of each bolt head was drilled out with successive-sized drill bits. This allows you to get a "bite" on them with a spiral screw extractor.
Read: 7 Drill Press Uses For Motorcycle Repair
After the security bolts were removed, the replacement ignition switch was installed, then re-installation of headlamp and instrument cluster and handlebars.
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Looking back at it, It's probably better to not use a fork lock at all. A cable and lock is a better theft preventative, because unlike fork locks, it's a visual turn-off for would-be thieves.
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